Coffee (Bunna) Ceremony

One of the major cultural differences between Ethiopia and the U.S. that hit me right away was the importance of honoring guests and ceremony in Ethiopian culture. An important ceremony in Ethiopia is the coffee ceremony, it happens daily and for significant events. The arrival of four American teachers was deemed an important event and the coffee ceremony is also a way to share Ethiopian culture with visitors. The coffee ceremony can happen indoors or out, we usually did it inside. Electricity is less available and not consistent in Ethiopia so much of the cooking, including roasting the green coffee beans happens over coal fires. The coffee beans are roasted and the water is heated over a small brazier filled with coal, there is little smoke generated in the process of roasting the beans…a phenomenon I have not been able to replicate when roasting beans over my stove back in Vermont.

Coffee Ceremony at Bishan Guracha school

The coffee ceremony has several parts, first the accoutrements:

Pot (jebena)

Jebena

Roasting pan

Mortar (mukecha) and pestle (zenezena)

Mat (grass or woven plastic, which symbolizes abundance)

Incense

Cups (cini)

Coffee Ceremony at Naget Kokeb school

Tedalech's sister grinding the coffee.

The process:

First the beans are roasted over the coals, the beans are rinsed thoroughly before they are roasted but not soaked. Next, water is heated in the coffee pot over the coals while the beans are ground. The traditional way of grinding the beans is with a mortar and pestle, but now electric grinders are also used. 

Once the beans are ground and the water is heated, the grounds are added to the water and placed back on the coals. The coffee brews, is cooled, and then reheated over the coals. 

I take a turn grinding coffee at Elizabeth's, I was not that good at it.

Once the coffee is ready for consumption a filter is placed over the spout, it is poured into small cups, the pour is not stopped completely as each cup is filled, so a continuous stream of coffee flows, some might spill but this is part of the ceremony. 

Kidist doing the continuous pour of coffee.

Bunna in a cini at Genet's 

The coffee is served black with sugar, or in more rural areas with salt. Milk or cream are not usually had with coffee and certainly not during coffee ceremony.

The traditional way of doing coffee ceremony involves three pours: the first round of coffee is strongest, water is added to the grounds again for a weaker brew, and finally the third round is weakest yet. The significance of the three pours is spiritual with the third cup being the most blessed and bringing the drinker closer to spiritual transformation.

While the coffee is being roasted, ground, and brewed, incense (usually frankincense) is burning in a small container in front of the brazier. The incense clears the air of bad spirits and, of course, frankincense brings to mind Christ’s birth. Coals from the brazier are added to the dish of incense throughout the ceremony.

The coffee ceremony can take up to two hours, it is a time to talk, relax, and appreciate and honor family and friends. Before and during the ceremony traditional snacks such as popcorn, bread, and toasted barley are shared.

Tedalech (right), her family, and Mulu after the coffee ceremony at her home.