One of the major cultural differences between Ethiopia and
the U.S. that hit me right away was the importance of honoring guests and
ceremony in Ethiopian culture. An important ceremony in Ethiopia is the coffee
ceremony, it happens daily and for significant events. The arrival of four
American teachers was deemed an important event and the coffee ceremony is also
a way to share Ethiopian culture with visitors. The coffee ceremony can happen
indoors or out, we usually did it inside. Electricity is less available and not
consistent in Ethiopia so much of the cooking, including roasting the green
coffee beans happens over coal fires. The coffee beans are roasted and the
water is heated over a small brazier filled with coal, there is little smoke
generated in the process of roasting the beans…a phenomenon I have not been
able to replicate when roasting beans over my stove back in Vermont.
|
Coffee Ceremony at Bishan Guracha school |
The coffee ceremony has several parts, first the accoutrements:
Pot (jebena)
|
Jebena |
Roasting pan
Mortar (mukecha)
and pestle (zenezena)
Mat (grass or woven plastic, which symbolizes abundance)
Incense
Cups (cini)
|
Coffee Ceremony at Naget Kokeb school |
|
Tedalech's sister grinding the coffee. |
The process:
First the beans are roasted over the coals, the beans are
rinsed thoroughly before they are roasted but not soaked. Next, water is heated
in the coffee pot over the coals while the beans are ground. The traditional
way of grinding the beans is with a mortar and pestle, but now electric
grinders are also used.
Once the beans are ground and the water is heated, the
grounds are added to the water and placed back on the coals. The coffee brews,
is cooled, and then reheated over the coals.
|
I take a turn grinding coffee at Elizabeth's, I was not that good at it. |
|
Once the coffee is ready for
consumption a filter is placed over the spout, it is poured into small cups,
the pour is not stopped completely as each cup is filled, so a continuous
stream of coffee flows, some might spill but this is part of the ceremony.
|
Kidist doing the continuous pour of coffee. |
|
Bunna in a cini at Genet's |
|
The coffee is served black with sugar, or in more rural areas with salt. Milk or cream are not usually had with coffee and certainly not during coffee ceremony.
The traditional way of doing coffee ceremony involves three
pours: the first round of coffee is strongest, water is added to the grounds
again for a weaker brew, and finally the third round is weakest yet. The significance
of the three pours is spiritual with the third cup being the most blessed and
bringing the drinker closer to spiritual transformation.
While the coffee is being roasted, ground, and brewed,
incense (usually frankincense) is burning in a small container in front of the
brazier. The incense clears the air of bad spirits and, of course, frankincense
brings to mind Christ’s birth. Coals from the brazier are added to the dish of
incense throughout the ceremony.
The coffee ceremony can take up to two hours, it is a time
to talk, relax, and appreciate and honor family and friends. Before and during the ceremony traditional snacks such as popcorn, bread, and toasted barley are shared.
|
Tedalech (right), her family, and Mulu after the coffee ceremony at her home. |